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Waterwise Gardening Talk

  • March 15, 2011 12:12 pm

I’ll be teaching several classes for the Town of Cary this year.

Saturday, 19 March at 10:30 am I’ll be doing a talk at the Herbert Young Community Center, 101 Wilkinson Ave, Cary, NC 27511.

The class is called What’s in a Water-Wise Landscape?  Seven Steps to a Healthy Property (#50361)

The fee is $5 for Cary residents and $7 for non-residents.

You can register online, here https://classweb.townofcary.org/eConnect/Start/Start.asp or you can call the center at 919-460-4965 to register.  You should also be able to get in if you just come in on Saturday—head to the front desk at the center.

I’ll also be doing a pruning class again on 9 April as well as repeating this one on 21 May.  You can see more about these classes in this section of the Town of Cary’s Spring Program Brochure, page 13.

I hope to see you there!  Let me know if you are coming!

Time to Fertilize Fescue Lawns in NC–or maybe NOT

  • September 17, 2010 2:12 pm

It’s time for the one of the most important fertilizer treatments of the year.  At least for your cool season lawns in North Carolina.  There are 3 main times to fertilize:  Valentine’s Day, Labor Day and Thanksgiving.  If you remember the three holidays, you’ll have no problem fertilizing at the right time of the year.  I’ve waited to post this a bit because there’s one good reason to NOT FERTILIZE now. 

We haven’t had any rain. 

SO, unless you’ve been irrigating your lawn, don’t fertilize yet.   Consider watering for a week or so, then fertilizing, then water for at least another week or so.  Your lawn will thank you.  That watering will also make the aeration your soil needs more effective.

According to NCSU’s TurfFiles maintenance calendar, we should apply 1 lb of actual nitrogen per 1,000 sf of lawn.  

To determine how much nitrogen is in a bag of fertilizer look at the three numbers on the bag, 10-10-10, 3-2-3, etc.  Those three numbers tell you what percentage of the bag is Nitrogen, Phosphorus, and Potassium(K–P was already used on the periodic chart!).  All the rest of the fertilizer is filler–very important for spreading the nutrients.  So a 100 lb bag of 3-2-3 will have 3 lbs of actual nitrogen in it.  So, that 100 lb bag will cover 3,000 square feet of lawn.

Check out TurfFiles for lots of valuable lawn information.  There is even a great watering aid called the Turf Irrigation Management System (TIMS) available there.  Check out some of my watering articles for some help getting your lawn through this dry season.

Too Dry, Too Dry–At Least for Fescue Lawns

  • September 16, 2010 8:38 am

OK, it’s dry here in the Triangle, NC area.   There’s no rain in the current 10 day forecast and the tropical storms/hurricanes seem to be keeping well east of our area.  Historically, October tends to be a dry month, so unless something really changes we are looking at a dry fall for our landscapes.

Now’s the perfect time to work on your Fescue lawn, but the dry weather is making that a challenge.   Lawn aeration this time of year is the most important thing you can do for your cool season lawn.  Unfortunately, the dry weather has left our soil very dry and those plug aerators will likely bounce right off the dry clay, doing very little good.  I’ve heard some lawn care companies are holding off aeration for right now.  If you are combining the aeration with overseeding you might not want to wait too long.  Except for the lack of rain, we’ve had excellent weather for germinating Fescue seed.  The cool nights (but not too cool) and warm days will get that seed sprouting quickly.

My suggestion is to do some watering.  Actually, your lawn, if it hasn’t been watered, has been going dormant.  Fall is the time for it to really get growing before the cold weather.  If you want your grass to stay healthy, I’d recommend some supplemental watering.  Start watering now to get it out of dormancy, and keep it up until we get sufficient rain.  If you start watering now and get that soil moist, you’ll be ready to aerate soon. 

So, what’s sufficient rain?  Fescue lawns do best with 1″ of water per week during the growing season (RDU records less than 0.2″ for the past three weeks!).  They survive quite well with 1/2″ per week.  But this is prime growing season, so 1″ would be better.  That 1″ shouldn’t happen all at once in our clay soils–most will just run off.  So dividing it up into two to three waterings is best.  Take a look at my lawn watering post  for more information about watering lawns.*

Don’t miss the window for working on your lawn.  Get some watering done.  Grass can be an important groundcover, protecting soil and slowing stormwater runoff.  If you want lawn, take care of it.  If you don’t, turn it into mulched areas.  Protect your soil one way or another.

*Find more information on watering by clicking the “watering” category in the tag list at the bottom of most pages of my website.

My Favorite Landscape Tool*

  • September 15, 2010 9:33 am

This is what I use for hand watering:

Dramm water breaker
Dramm 400PL water breaker

 

This is a water breaker by Dramm.  Here’s what Dramm says about it:

The 400PL Water Breaker provides fast, full-flow watering without damage to your plants. Patterned after the original 400 Aluminum water breaker , the 400PL is made from high-impact ABS plastic and aluminum to provide a lightweight alternative. Used by professional growers worldwide. Made in U.S.A. 3/4 hose threads.

 

Here’s one (on a wand) available at Amazon.  These breakers really are the best way to get water to your plants.   The water comes out fast, but gently.  When it’s at the end of a 30″ wand you can get the water right to the roots of plants (where you should be watering) without bending over.  When you hold it up in the air, you can get a rainshower effect.  There is an even more gentle breaker available if you do a lot with seeds or cuttings. 

By watering gently you won’t disturb the plant, soil or mulch.  By getting a full flow of water, you water faster.  I’ve usually told clients to use a wand to water and lately I’ve seen them get trigger spray nozzles (some with adjustable patterns) on wands.  These are not the same.  The trigger, not the nozzle, controls the amount of water coming out.  It’s hard, if not impossible, to keep the water from coming out forcefully.  Even the “Mist” or “Shower” pattern settings have too much force to water at the root zone.  The Dramm (or similar) breaker is a nozzle that works gently without worrying about controlling the flow.

If you want to get the water where it needs to be, water quickly and spare your back, get one of these wands and breakers.  Actually, get two; one for the front hose and one for the back.  Get a long one for most watering, and a short one if you have lots of hanging baskets.  Put a good shut off valve on the wand/hose to turn off the water as you move from plant to plant.  Save the trigger sprayers for washing the car.  By the way, I use a quick connect to easily switch from my wand to my trigger sprayer.

*Actually, besides my Felco hand pruners, I have another favorite tool.  I love my spading fork for planting.  I’ll write about that another day.

Smart Irrigation

  • August 2, 2010 3:30 pm

Last week,  Lenny Theobald of Rain Bird gave a talk about efficient irrigation during customer appreciation day at Shemin Landscape Supply in Morrisville, NC. 

I’m all about efficiency in the landscape.  Water is critical but so often improperly used, wasting this precious resource and wasting money.  I’ve posted a couple of articles on proper watering, see here and here

Rain Bird emphasizes the Intelligent Use of Water (click for their publication).   Lenny focused on some of the most efficient products Rain Bird recommends. 

I’m most excited about their new Copper Shield drip lines.  These drip lines are specially designed to be used for subsurface drip irrigation.  One of the biggest problems with drip irrigation underground is that roots can clog up the in-line emitters.  Root inhibiting chemicals can be used in the lines, but these have copper inserts at each emitter that naturally inhibits roots with a localized effect.  It’s been tested for 15 years and is expected to have a 16 year lifespan.  Subsurface drip is perfect for devil’s strips (the area between the curb and sidewalk) and for other narrow areas of turf where overspray is hard to reduce with overhead irrigation.  I suppose it could also be used for groundcover plantings as well.  I’d love to find someone in the Triangle, NC area who’d like to give this product a shot.  Correct installation is critical, spacing of lines and emitters depends on the type of soil.

Have you ever seen soil erosion or water leaking around a head on a system, especially at low areas?  Water will drain out of the lowest irrigation head due to simple gravity.  This water loss is a complete waste that can increase the chance of water hammer in lines and means the zone needs to run longer to recharge the empty pipes and irrigate the area.  Check valves can keep this from happening.  Some municipalities require check valves at heads near curbs and sidewalks–it’s a good idea to use them to save water.

Did you know that sprinkler heads run best at certain water pressures?  Too much pressure results in tiny water droplets that can easily evaporate and drift.  There are sprinkler heads with pressure regulating mechanisms that help make the heads more efficient–most can save you 50% more water if the pressure is too high. 

More savings can be found with nozzles that allow better close in watering at the heads.  Have you ever noticed that grass close to the head doesn’t seem to get much water?  It’s easy to just make that zone run longer, but then you are overwatering other areas and wasting water.  Using the most efficient nozzles can save up to 30% more water. 

There’s a lot that can be done with proper scheduling of irrigation systems to save water.  Lenny said that, on average, most irrigation systems are adjusted 1.5 times per year.  Usually systems are set for the highest water demands of the year.  Or maybe they are set for that new landscape installation and never adjusted.  Both mean a lot of wasted water.  Ideally, systems should be adjusted weekly weekly, or at least monthly.   Minimally, systems should have rain sensors to keep them from running when it’s rained a predetermined amount.  Rain Bird has a soil sensor that should be even better than a rain sensor.  Both types of sensors will shut off the system until enough of the water disappears (from the rain sensor or the soil).   Sensors can be used on any system. 

Rain Bird finally has a smart controller I can recommend.  Until now, I’ve only recommended the Toro Intelli-sense controller which uses downloaded ET data to schedule waterings.  Other smart controllers are available, but I haven’t liked the on-site weather stations.  Rain Bird has a rain gauge that calculates how much and how fast rain falls.  That data is combined with historical weather data for your area to schedule watering more efficiently.   Smart controllers have been shown to save at least 35% more water than regular controllers.  

I worked with clients that had a new irrigation system installed.  The couple was expecting a child in August.  The system went in in July with a smart controller installed.  When I took a look at the system in September, the watering schedule had adjusted itself to water no more than once or twice a week (in summer it had been watering 3 times a week).  While adjusting to new baby schedules, my clients had no time to adjust irrigation schedules.  If they had installed a old style controller, they’d have wasted a lot of water and money!

Now, all of these water saving products will increase the cost of your system.  But remember, a cheap system will cost you a lot of money over time.  Most of these extra costs will be made up in the first couple of years in water savings.  Also, if you have an existing system, it can be updated with new technology.  Whether you are installing a new system or upgrading an old one be sure to find an irrigation contractor that is familiar with these products.

If you make sure your irrigation system is as efficient as possible there is no doubt you’ll save water and money.  Plus, you’ll have a healthier landscape better able to withstand drought if the water needs to be turned off.  Our most visible water use (and water waste) tends to be in our irrigation systems.  It’s often the first water use attacked during droughts.  If we can all save water, maybe we can keep those attacks at bay.

Watering: Part 2—Efficiency and a Healthy Lawn

  • April 13, 2010 4:12 pm

OK, so now it’s on to lawn watering. 

Just like with new plants, it’s important to water your lawn efficiently.  This will help ensure its overall health and its ability to withstand drought (we get those occasionally here in the NC Piedmont).  Efficient watering also saves water and makes us better stewards of our resources—you do know that lawn watering is always the water use people gripe about when water supplies are getting low.

Note—these quidelines are for North Carolina, USDA zones 7-8.

Things to avoid when watering:   frequent, light waterings; watering during the heat of the day, evening or night; allowing excess water to run off lawn areas; and overspraying hard surfaces.

Continue reading – Watering: Part 2—Efficiency and a Healthy Lawn

Watering: Part 1—Getting Plants Established

  • April 8, 2010 10:45 am

Here in the Raleigh (North Carolina) area we’ve been having some really dry weather.  With only a small amount of rain for most of the past 30 days, it’s been a dry spring. 

Most of our established plants are just fine, coming out of dormancy, but if the trend continues as all those plants start needing more water, we’ll need to do some supplemental watering. 

On the other hand, plants that have been in the ground 6-9 months or less may need supplemental watering now.  Fescue lawns are also looking a bit parched.  In this post I’ll discuss watering newly installed plants and in Part 2, I’ll look at lawns.

All new plants need to become established before they can use natural rainwater well and survive droughty conditions.  Establishment really refers to the expansion of root systems from the rootball into the native soil.  In general, smaller plants establish more quickly than larger ones.  It is important to water new plants properly to get them established well.

Continue reading – Watering: Part 1—Getting Plants Established