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Waterwise Gardening Talk

  • March 15, 2011 12:12 pm

I’ll be teaching several classes for the Town of Cary this year.

Saturday, 19 March at 10:30 am I’ll be doing a talk at the Herbert Young Community Center, 101 Wilkinson Ave, Cary, NC 27511.

The class is called What’s in a Water-Wise Landscape?  Seven Steps to a Healthy Property (#50361)

The fee is $5 for Cary residents and $7 for non-residents.

You can register online, here https://classweb.townofcary.org/eConnect/Start/Start.asp or you can call the center at 919-460-4965 to register.  You should also be able to get in if you just come in on Saturday—head to the front desk at the center.

I’ll also be doing a pruning class again on 9 April as well as repeating this one on 21 May.  You can see more about these classes in this section of the Town of Cary’s Spring Program Brochure, page 13.

I hope to see you there!  Let me know if you are coming!

Leave Those Leaves…

  • October 19, 2010 8:30 pm

well, sort of.  

There are plenty of reasons why keeping leaves on your property is a good idea.   Here are three:

  • First, removing the leaves is a waste of perfectly good mulching material.  Have you ever raked up those leaves to place at the curb, then headed out to the garden center for bags of mulch to put in your beds?  Yes, fresh new mulch looks great, but so can chopped up leaves. 
  • Second, municipal leaf hauling and composting costs our towns money.  Fuel, equipment, labor are all needed for fall leaf clean collection.  If your town doesn’t compost, the cost is even higher and extremely wasteful. 
  • Last, have you ever raked those leaves into a nice neat pile at the curb only to see them blown around the next day?  Or blocking storm drains because they are on the street side of the curb?  You did know they shouldn’t be on that side didn’t you?  How hard is it to drive down narrow streets with piles of leaves on the street? 

Personally, I think the only legitimate use for leaf piles is to please exuberant children.  Compost piles are a close second, but who has room for one that can accomodate all those leaves?  Think about it, trees use nutrients from the soil to build their leaves, the leaves senesce and fall.   Many valuable nutrients are still in those leaves.  We remove the leaves, robbing soil organisms of their own nutrition (from the organic leaves).  Finally, we add fertilizer to replenish the lost soil nutrients which the trees then use… ad infinitum.

So, what can you do with all those leaves?  They can be used to mulch planting beds, natural areas (so-called, but usually far from natural) and even lawns. 

First, chop them up.  This will increase the surface area of the leaves and allow decomposers to break them down more easily.  Whole leaves (at least large ones) mat up keeping water and oxygen from getting to the soil below.  This tends to create anaerobic conditions in which most soil organisms cannot survive.   Dry whole leaves tend to blow around and rarely stay where you want them (until they are wet and matted).  Mowers can be used to chop the leaves.   Mulching mowers are great when you can just leave the bits where you are mowing.  Mowers with regular side discharges will send the leaf pieces where you want them.  A bag (this usually gathers dust, doesn’t it?) can help collect the leaves to be placed where you want them.  You can also use a leaf shredder or chipper.  The leaves must be dry for the best results in both chopping and spreading.  So get out there before it rains but sleep in a bit to wait until the dew dries in the morning.

Finely chopped leaves can even be left right on your lawn.  Well, really IN your lawn between the blades.  The tighter your lawn, the finer you should chop.  You could run over the leaves several times with a regular mower but a mulching mower would work even better (you’ve been meaning to get one of those anyway, haven’t you?). 

Studies have shown that mulching leaves into your lawn won’t harm the grass and even increases the microbial activity in the soil which keeps the soil more open and porous.  Just be sure the leaf bits don’t cover the leaf blades.  Here in the North Carolina Piedmont our fescue lawns have just been overseeded, so watch out for those tiny plants.  Hopefully, you got the seeding done weeks before most of the leaves fall and the new grass has been mowed once or twice.  You can find more information on mowing new lawn grasses on page 15 of NCSU’s Carolina Lawns publication.

Be sure you don’t forget those regular lawn fertilizations, especially if you are applying leaf mulch.  Many of the microbes which will be breaking the leaf bits down into soil goodies use nitrogen while working.  They’ll tie it up and keep your lawn from using it (but release it again when they are done).  For our NC fescue lawns the fall fertilizations are the most important.  Hopefully you got yours done around Labor Day and will be ready for the Thanksgiving treatment (remember those two holidays plus Valentine’s Day for fescue fertilization).  Other types of lawns should be fertilized as recommend for the lawn type.  Again, Carolina Lawns has good information for all homeowners.

So, this year see how many leaves you can leave on your property.  Maybe we’ll be dodging fewer piles on city streets.  In a few years your landscape may be looking so amazing that your neighbors will wish they had more trees.

Time to Fertilize Fescue Lawns in NC–or maybe NOT

  • September 17, 2010 2:12 pm

It’s time for the one of the most important fertilizer treatments of the year.  At least for your cool season lawns in North Carolina.  There are 3 main times to fertilize:  Valentine’s Day, Labor Day and Thanksgiving.  If you remember the three holidays, you’ll have no problem fertilizing at the right time of the year.  I’ve waited to post this a bit because there’s one good reason to NOT FERTILIZE now. 

We haven’t had any rain. 

SO, unless you’ve been irrigating your lawn, don’t fertilize yet.   Consider watering for a week or so, then fertilizing, then water for at least another week or so.  Your lawn will thank you.  That watering will also make the aeration your soil needs more effective.

According to NCSU’s TurfFiles maintenance calendar, we should apply 1 lb of actual nitrogen per 1,000 sf of lawn.  

To determine how much nitrogen is in a bag of fertilizer look at the three numbers on the bag, 10-10-10, 3-2-3, etc.  Those three numbers tell you what percentage of the bag is Nitrogen, Phosphorus, and Potassium(K–P was already used on the periodic chart!).  All the rest of the fertilizer is filler–very important for spreading the nutrients.  So a 100 lb bag of 3-2-3 will have 3 lbs of actual nitrogen in it.  So, that 100 lb bag will cover 3,000 square feet of lawn.

Check out TurfFiles for lots of valuable lawn information.  There is even a great watering aid called the Turf Irrigation Management System (TIMS) available there.  Check out some of my watering articles for some help getting your lawn through this dry season.

Too Dry, Too Dry–At Least for Fescue Lawns

  • September 16, 2010 8:38 am

OK, it’s dry here in the Triangle, NC area.   There’s no rain in the current 10 day forecast and the tropical storms/hurricanes seem to be keeping well east of our area.  Historically, October tends to be a dry month, so unless something really changes we are looking at a dry fall for our landscapes.

Now’s the perfect time to work on your Fescue lawn, but the dry weather is making that a challenge.   Lawn aeration this time of year is the most important thing you can do for your cool season lawn.  Unfortunately, the dry weather has left our soil very dry and those plug aerators will likely bounce right off the dry clay, doing very little good.  I’ve heard some lawn care companies are holding off aeration for right now.  If you are combining the aeration with overseeding you might not want to wait too long.  Except for the lack of rain, we’ve had excellent weather for germinating Fescue seed.  The cool nights (but not too cool) and warm days will get that seed sprouting quickly.

My suggestion is to do some watering.  Actually, your lawn, if it hasn’t been watered, has been going dormant.  Fall is the time for it to really get growing before the cold weather.  If you want your grass to stay healthy, I’d recommend some supplemental watering.  Start watering now to get it out of dormancy, and keep it up until we get sufficient rain.  If you start watering now and get that soil moist, you’ll be ready to aerate soon. 

So, what’s sufficient rain?  Fescue lawns do best with 1″ of water per week during the growing season (RDU records less than 0.2″ for the past three weeks!).  They survive quite well with 1/2″ per week.  But this is prime growing season, so 1″ would be better.  That 1″ shouldn’t happen all at once in our clay soils–most will just run off.  So dividing it up into two to three waterings is best.  Take a look at my lawn watering post  for more information about watering lawns.*

Don’t miss the window for working on your lawn.  Get some watering done.  Grass can be an important groundcover, protecting soil and slowing stormwater runoff.  If you want lawn, take care of it.  If you don’t, turn it into mulched areas.  Protect your soil one way or another.

*Find more information on watering by clicking the “watering” category in the tag list at the bottom of most pages of my website.

Smith Mountain Lake, Penhook Virginia Project

  • April 23, 2010 3:39 pm

In 2004 I started helping a client with her lake house.  I’d already designed her Raleigh property and she wanted to transform her lake house as well.  The house is gorgeous, a farmhouse style with a red barn-like garage, but the landscape was lacking.  The property sloped steeply to the lake and while the two gracious back porches offered great views, the lawn was nearly unusable.

At the time, I worked for Greenscape, a design-build company in Holly Springs, NC.  The lake house was about two hours away so I wasn’t sure Greenscape would do the installation after I completed the design.  It would certainly be more costly for the client with hotel and meals for the crew to be covered.

Lake house after 2004 installation

The plan I did then concentrated on the plantings, which were minimal compared to the Raleigh property, and some stone hardscaping.   I really wanted to terrace the steep back yard, but the clients weren’t ready for that very major work and didn’t want to lose the expanse of lawn. 

Greenscape did do the stone work but the planting was done by a local landscaper.  The property was nice, but in my mind, still not complete.

Fast forward to fall of 2009.  My client injured her knee and realized how very hard it could be to get to the boathouse at the lake.  The sloping lawn even made the trip hazardous.   She was ready for a solution.

Lake house 2010

New walls in progress

I was finally able to work on my terracing idea.  I proposed creating two lower walls running parallel to the house.  The visual impact of the walls from above would be minimal and the terraces would be resodded so there would still be a great expanse of lawn.  From the lake, the house would be grounded (it appears a bit top heavy) by the stone walls.   Four sets of stone steps would ease movement down to the pier.

Well, Greenscape is back on site and the new walls are going in. Yesterday I made a site visit to check the progress.  The steps are in and the lower wall is complete.  The upper wall is about one-fourth of the way along.  You can already see the impact the walls have on the home.  Once the walls are done, soil will brought in, the site graded and new sod will go down.

I sent some pictures the owner and she’s very excited, saying the walls are the “final gem” for the property.  I am so excited to see this project complete.  My next visit will be Wednesday and I’ll post more pics then.

Watering: Part 2—Efficiency and a Healthy Lawn

  • April 13, 2010 4:12 pm

OK, so now it’s on to lawn watering. 

Just like with new plants, it’s important to water your lawn efficiently.  This will help ensure its overall health and its ability to withstand drought (we get those occasionally here in the NC Piedmont).  Efficient watering also saves water and makes us better stewards of our resources—you do know that lawn watering is always the water use people gripe about when water supplies are getting low.

Note—these quidelines are for North Carolina, USDA zones 7-8.

Things to avoid when watering:   frequent, light waterings; watering during the heat of the day, evening or night; allowing excess water to run off lawn areas; and overspraying hard surfaces.

Continue reading – Watering: Part 2—Efficiency and a Healthy Lawn

Time to Fertilize Fescue Lawns in NC

  • February 15, 2010 9:00 am

It’s time for the first lawn fertilization of the year.  At least for your cool season lawns in North Carolina.  The next two will be Labor Day and Thanksgiving.  If you remember the three holidays (including  yesterday’s), you’ll have no problems fertilizing at the right time of the year.

According to NCSU’s TurfFiles maintenance calendar, now’s the time to apply 1 lb of actual nitrogen per 1,000 sf of lawn.  

To determine how much nitrogen is in a bag of fertilizer look at the three numbers on the bag, 10-10-10, 3-2-3, etc.  Those three numbers tell you what percentage of the bag is Nitrogen, Phosphorus, and Potassium(K–P was already used on the periodic chart!).  All the rest of the fertilizer is filler–very important for spreading the nutrients.  So a 100 lb bag of 3-2-3 will have 3 lbs of actual nitrogen in it.  So, that 100 lb bag will cover 3,000 square feet of lawn.

Those of you with warm season lawns (Bermuda, Zoysia, Centipede) need to hold off for several months.

Check out TurfFiles for lots of great lawn information.  There is even a great watering aid called the Turf Irrigation Management System (TIMS) available there.  I’ll wait to talk more about watering in a month or so–we definitely don’t need it now!